arctic cat

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For your Arctic Cat, we offer many different stages of clutch work to help get the maximum gains out of your machine. Depending on your tire size, motor mods, and riding style we may recommend different stages of work to help meet your needs and fit your riding style so that your machine will maintain peak performance. We offer these stages for your factory clutches:


Stage 1 - Machining the inner and outer primary sheaves to allow the belt to drop lower in the primary gaining you a lower gear ratio to pull bigger tires easier, giving you better throttle response and better throttle control especially when running larger tires. Our machining gains a lower gear ratio than any shim mod or clutch kit can ever compare to, for the maximum low end gains, machining the primary clutch is the only way to go!

Stage 2 - Fixed plate modification. This is when we cut and modify the ramp angles of the fixed plate in the primary clutch. This modification changes the ramp angles of the primary clutch which changes the shiftout rate of the clutch holding your clutch in its midrange longer helping you maintain peak power thru the midrange, this modification also allows the rollers to push the movable sheave closed further, usually netting 5-7mph more top speeds.

Stage 3 - Spacer sleeve modification. The stage 3 work is necessary on arctic cat mudpro clutches, and is also necessary for any stage above stage 3. If you plan on a stage 5 setup, stage 3 is a must to get the proper belt alignment after stage 4.

Stage 4 - Complete lightening of the primary clutch, lightens the primary further, and since we take out more material in order to lighten the clutch is why the spacer sleeve has to be shortened in the primary in order to keep the proper belt alignment.

Stage 5 - Machining the secondary clutch to allow the secondary to open further allowing the belt to ride lower in the secondary without increasing the secondary spring tension past a certain point. This allows the secondary to open easier, so it is easier for the machine to gain top speeds. A full stage 5 setup will usually net 7-10mph top speed increase if your machine has the power to pull the taller gearing ratio. The machining will give you a taller gear ratio, it is purely up to your engine to pull the taller gear ratio. If you do not have enough power to pull any faster, you may not see any top speed gains.

Stage 5+ - Complete lightening of the secondary clutch. By lightening the secondary clutch we can make the secondary rev up faster which helps you accelerate faster.

Lightening Clutch rollers

Your factory clutch has plastic rollers with weighted inserts. When you build a clutch setup, it is imperative to get the engine turning the proper RPMs in order to make max power. The clutch rollers are your direct key to how many RPMs you engine turns. The lighter the rollers the more RPMs you turn, the heavier your rollers are the less RPMs you turn. By lightening the rollers to the proper weight we can make your engine rev to its proper RPM so that your engine makes peak power under loads. We have done the testing to find out what weight rollers suit each machine best with each of our modifications, all you have to do is ship in your factory rollers and we will lighten them or weigh them in order for your machine to make peak power!

Upgraded Wet Clutch Shoes

We have spent SO many hours testing arctic cats, and we know one of their major limits is the wet clutch. We spent many many hours working on the wet clutch delete to get rid of the wet clutch, and it is alot of modifications and is costly. For those of you who dont want to go that far we have the MOD for you!!! Our new wet clutch shoes have been tested and developed with all the best materials for heat dissipation, grip, and power handling. These shoes are a mixture of materials to grip the wet clutch drum the best, dissipate the heat created from friction in the wet clutch drum, and hold the power from the crank and deliver it to the drum to keep your dry clutches turning. These shoes flat out dont slip like the stockers. If you have burned your factory drum you may need to send it in to get turned to get rid of the hardened grooves that are created by a slipping wet clutch.

Wet Clutch Delete

The wet clutch delete is for those who are serious about power and putting it to the ground. Anyone that has ever smoked a wet clutch, or been outrun by a can-am or kawasaki know that your Arctic Cats main limit is the wet clutch. Getting rid of that slipping and power robbing wet clutch is by far the most extreme modification you can make in the power department. By getting rid of the wet clutch lag, slip, and power robbing weight, you can unleash more power than you ever dreamed your Arctic Cat had. With our wet clutch delete setup, you will need to ship us your wet clutch housing off your engine, along with your wet clutch that is bolted to your crankshaft. We will then build you a complete new primary clutch, along with machine your housing to accept our new shafts we built that deletes your wet clutch. This new primary clutch is a CVtech primary just as i sell for the can-am machines that makes them such a monster, and it will make your machine a monster too! The new wet clutch delete jackshaft i build, along with the new CVtech primary i build for your machine will free up nearly 7 pounds of rotating mass off your crankshaft allowing your engine to rev like it should, also since this wet clutch delete is getting rid of any slip, you unleash all the power your engine truly makes. Althought it is expensive, it will produce as low of a gear ratio as our normal machining to the factory clutches, along with getting rid of the wet clutch slip, and put all your power to the ground making your machine a whole new beast.


Stage 1 --------------------- $100
Stage 2 --------------------- $50
Stage 3 --------------------- $30
Stage 4 --------------------- $100
Stage 5 --------------------- $150
Stage 5+ ------------------- $170
Lightening rollers--------- $50
Wet Clutch Shoes ------ $230
Wet Clutch Delete ------ $1250