yamaha

YAMAHA clutch machining

ABOUT AIRDAM CLUTCHES

For your Yamaha, we offer many different stages of clutch work to help get the maximum gains out of your machine. Depending on your tire size, motor mods, and riding style we may recommend different stages of work to help meet your needs and fit your riding style so that your machine will maintain peak performance. We offer these stages for your factory clutches:

 

NOTE: these modifications are to your existing clutches, you must ship in your clutch and let us modify and machine them or purchase new clutch parts with the machine work done.

STAGE 1

Machining the inner and outer primary sheaves to allow the belt to drop lower in the primary gaining you a lower gear ratio to pull bigger tires easier, giving you better throttle response and better throttle control especially when running larger tires.

Our machining gains a lower gear ratio than any shim mod or clutch kit can ever compare to, for the maximum low end gains, machining the primary clutch is the only way to go!

STAGE 2

Fixed plate modification. This is when we cut and modify the ramp angles of the fixed plate in the primary clutch. This modification changes the ramp angles of the primary clutch which changes the shiftout rate of the clutch holding your clutch in its midrange longer helping you maintain peak power thru the midrange, this modification also allows the rollers to push the movable sheave closed further, usually netting 5-7mph more top speeds.

STAGE 3

Spacer sleeve modification. The stage 3 work is necessary for any stage above stage 2. If you plan on a stage 5 setup, stage 3 is a must to get the proper belt alignment after stage 4.

STAGE 4

Complete lightening of the primary clutch, lightens the primary further, and since we take out more material in order to lighten the clutch is why the spacer sleeve has to be shortened in the primary in order to keep the proper belt alignment.

 

STAGE 5

Machining the secondary clutch to allow the secondary to open further allowing the belt to ride lower in the secondary without increasing the secondary spring tension past a certain point. This allows the secondary to open easier, so it is easier for the machine to gain top speeds. A full stage 5 setup will usually net 7-10mph top speed increase if your machine has the power to pull the taller gearing ratio.

The machining will give you a taller gear ratio, it is purely up to your engine to pull the taller gear ratio. If you do not have enough power to pull any faster, you may not see any top speed gains.

STAGE 5+

Complete lightening of the secondary clutch. By lightening the secondary clutch we can make the secondary rev up faster which helps you accelerate faster.

LIGHTENING CLUTCH ROLLERS

Your factory clutch has plastic rollers with weighted inserts. When you build a clutch setup, it is imperative to get the engine turning the proper RPMs in order to make max power. The clutch rollers are your direct key to how many RPMs you engine turns. The lighter the rollers the more RPMs you turn, the heavier your rollers are the less RPMs you turn. By lightening the rollers to the proper weight we can make your engine rev to its proper RPM so that your engine makes peak power under loads.

We have done the testing to find out what weight rollers suit each machine best with each of our modifications, all you have to do is ship in your factory rollers and we will lighten them or weigh them in order for your machine to make peak power!

UPGRADED WET CLUTCH SHOES

We have spent SO many hours testing arctic cats, and we know one of their major limits is the wet clutch. We spent many many hours working on the wet clutch delete to get rid of the wet clutch, and it is alot of modifications and is costly. For those of you who dont want to go that far we have the MOD for you!!! Our new wet clutch shoes have been tested and developed with all the best materials for heat dissipation, grip, and power handling.

These shoes are a mixture of materials to grip the wet clutch drum the best, dissipate the heat created from friction in the wet clutch drum, and hold the power from the crank and deliver it to the drum to keep your dry clutches turning. These shoes flat out dont slip like the stockers. If you have burned your factory drum you may need to send it in to get turned to get rid of the hardened grooves that are created by a slipping wet clutch.

STAGE 1

$100

STAGE 2

$50

STAGE 3

$30

STAGE 4

$100

STAGE 5

$150

STAGE 5+

$170

Lightening Rollers

$50

Wet Clutch Shoes

$230